Tape rosin paper over the countertops and floor covering, and tape plastic sheeting over the backsplash, windows, repaired devices, and interior doorways (to protect the remainder of the home from dust and fumes). Mask off the wall around the cabinets. Lastly, established a worktable for painting doors, drawers, and shelves.
" Old cabinets are covered with whatever from hand oils to greasy smoke residue to petrified gravy," says Dee. "You've got to get all that off or the paint won't stick." Back out the hinge screws from the cabinet frame and eliminate the doors. Working systematically from left to right, leading to bottom, label every one with a numbered piece of tape.
Reserve the shelf-hanging hardware. At your worktable, eliminate the pulls and hinges and conserve what's being recycled. On the doors, move the number from the tape to the exposed wood under one hinge. Cover it with fresh tape. Open the windows for ventilation and put on security gear. Scrub down all of the face frames, doors, drawer fronts, and shelving with an abrasive pad dipped in liquid deglosser.
Prior to the deglosser evaporates, quickly clean away the residue with another tidy, deglosser-dampened rag. If you're moving the hardware, fill the old screw holes with a two-part polyester wood or autobody filler. It sets in about 5 minutes, so blend only little batches. (Dee adds a pea-size little bit of hardener to a golf-ball-size glob of filler - painting bathroom cabinets gray.) The filler shrinks a bit, so overfill the holes slightly.
If it hardens totally, sand it smooth - painting cherry cabinets white. Sand all surfaces with the grain utilizing 100-grit paper. To make certain no littles dust mar the surface, vacuum the cabinets inside and out, then rub them down with a tack cloth to catch any particles that the vacuum misses out on. Dee states, "Hand sanding is the finest method on oak due to the fact that you can push the paper into the open grain, which a power sander or sanding block will miss out on." When using a tack cloth, unfold each new cloth completely, down to one layer, then crumple it to get the greatest dust collection surface.
However they just sink into open-grained woods such as oak, ash, mahogany, or hickory. Brushing putty, the pudding-thick, oil-based finishing Dee utilized on these oak cabinets, fills the grain as it primes the wood. A couple of cautions: It must be used with a good-quality nylon-polyester brush, which you'll have to discard after each coat. painted oak kitchen cabinets before and after.
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Beginning at the top of the cabinet, brush on the guide or brushing putty throughout the grain, then "tip off" pass the brush gently over the wet surface in the instructions of the grain. Constantly tip off in a single stroke from one end to the other. Provide it a day to dry.
Sand any profiled surfaces with a medium-grit sanding sponge. When you're done, everything must be glass-smooth. Follow the hidden structure of the cabinet or door with the brush. Where a rail (horizontal piece) butts into a stile (vertical piece), for circumstances, paint the rail first, overlapping slightly onto the stile.
Where a stile butts into a rail, paint the stile initially. painted oak cabinets before and after. Squeeze a thin bead of latex caulk into any open joints. Pull the pointer as you go, then smooth the caulk with a moist finger. Fill any little damages, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty knife.